Californian Lot.64SF “Santa Fe” Online now

Californian Lot.64SF “Santa Fe”

SPECS

PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT64 cut features a traditional fit, classic mid rise, with a slightly-tapered leg for a 1950s-60s period vibe.

FABRIC:
Fancy “double-cross” 100% cotton corduroy, 8 wale cord, jet black, 14 Oz., wide loom, milled in Japan.
Pocketing: NOS 2×1 dark indigo 10.5 Oz. Japanese denim.

DETAILS:

* Original Mister Freedom® classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern in our popular Lot64 cut (slightly tapered leg, classic mid rise, traditional 1950s-60s silhouette.)
* Button fly, combination of brass/silver original MF® branded metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Overlocked leg outseam.
* NOS fabric pocket bags, 2×1 dark indigo denim.
* MF® original “M” branding stitch design on rear pockets, tonal.
* MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear pocket.
* Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread, gauge combination.
* Coin pocket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement bar tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (brown woven blanket.)
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT

This explains how we size and measure our garments.
The CALIFORNIAN Lot64SF “Santa Fe” comes UN-WASHED, and these jeans are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.

We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

• Cold soak in a tub for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.

• Line dry, no heat dryer.

The waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W30 with this model (my current waist size in MF® Californians), for a classic silhouette with a fitted top block and comfortable straight leg. I’m about 5’7 – 145 lbs.

Please check actual post-soak measurements on the product page chart to dial in what works for your specific body specs/preferred silhouette.

To save on unnecessary frustration and size-swaping shipping fees, please reach out to [email protected] to tune-in sizing if unsure. Please do provide body type and measurements, silhouette expectation, and, if available, measurements of a similar garment you own that fits according to your style.

Disclaimer: Using alternative methods for the initial shrink (such as soaking in hot water/full machine wash/heat dryer etc) may result in different sizing measurements. Do not boil these jeans, as they feature a genuine leather branding patch.

CARE

Turn garment inside out. Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage and damage.
Do not boil these jeans, as they feature a genuine leather branding patch.

STORY

You are probably familiar with the fact that we like to reimagine classic patterns around here, and play with interesting fabrics. So, when one material comes along, and ticks all the Mister Freedom® boxes (vintage vibe/natural fibers/provenance/cost/etc…), you know it’s making it to the cutting table!

The CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Jeans and CAMPUS Blouse are two staples of the Mister Freedom® USA-made roster, both original patterns released in a wide range of premium denims so far, some domestic New-Old-Stock, some milled/imported from Japan.

For this edition, we developped a very special grade of vintage-inspired 1940s all-cotton wide-wale corduroy (8 wale cord) in Japan, a perfect candidate for a fancy black cord cowboy tuxedo!

This fabric is reminiscent of traditional “Velour d’Amiens” (the famed sturdy wide-wale cotton corduroy material from France, for those familiar with French 1930s vintage hunting wear/workwear), discussed in this blogpost:

“Competing with the British Lancashire textile industry at the time, French mills established around the City of Amiens had been producing this workwear corduroy grade since the 18th Century. If some still refer to heavy corduroy fabric as Manchester in some parts of Europe, “Velour d’Amiens” is the term that is familiar to French old-timers.
Cosserat, a French mill founded around 1793, and one of the last velour côtelé manufacturer from Amiens, permanently closed its doors in 2012. With low-cost corduroy manufacturing coming out of China flooding the market, management of the long-standing Coserrat mill eventually gave up on restructuring attempts, and genuine “Velour d’Amiens” is sadly no longer manufactured.”

That fancy fabric initially made it into our mfsc catalog with the Mattock Jacket, in a camel brown version, followed by another special dye lot in “vintage” black for our Roamer Car Coat.
For the textile techie and traditional weaving enthusiast, this material falls under the “double cross” corduroy family — a process referred-to in Japan as “niju ori”, literally “double weave” —, a premium woven cord with special interlaced pile and ground yarns.

The semantic sound of a CALIFORNIAN “Santa Fe” edition may be a bit geographically puzzling, but the scoop is that the New Mexico moniker was initially chosen for our corduroy Campus Blouse, as a mere style nod to sport jackets produced by Janscraft in the 1930s-40s (and other period makers), featuring colorful Chimayo-style blankets combined with contrasting corduroy panels. The idea of a matching Californian came later in our design process, but the moniker stuck.

Whether you decide to go full-on Rio Grande, or mismatch the combo with traditional denim, vintage-style slacks, old-school leather jackets etc, both garments are versatile on their own, and easy to incorporate into classic wardrobes.

The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN & CAMPUS BLOUSE “Santa Fe” edition, in black 14 Oz. wide wale “Double Cross” 100% cotton corduroy, are designed and produced in California USA, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from premium fabric milled in Japan.